On a Roll at Daijobu Restaurant

A new restaurant by the folks behind City Market Sushi delivers exquisite hand rolls and ramen on S. Davie Street
by Rachel Simon | photography by Forrest Mason

From O-Ku downtown to Sushi Mon on Glenwood to Ajisai in the Village District, Raleighites are fortunate to have lots of great options when it comes to high-quality sushi in the area. And as of last fall that list includes Daijobu, a tiny but formidable E. Davie Street spot that’s already gaining a cult-like following for its unique menu.

Founded by Jin Chang, the owner of another popular Japanese restaurant, City Market Sushi, Daijobu — which roughly translates to “it’s alright” in Japanese — quietly opened in September in the space formerly occupied by Kaiju and The Darby. Now the restaurant regularly sees lines out the door for even weeknight seatings.

Taste even just one of its dishes and you’ll instantly understand why; the offerings, based mainly around a wide selection of hand rolls and ramen, are so memorably flavorful that you’ll find yourself asking for seconds (or thirds) before you’ve even finished the first round. “Our menu is a celebration of Japanese flavors, with a focus on authenticity and craftsmanship,” says Chang.

The tone is set from the minute you walk in the door; the chef and the rest of his team from City Market Sushi meticulously designed the restaurant with the aim of creating an “intimate and inviting space” for all patrons.

Outside, simple signage announces the restaurant, its interiors barely visible behind wooden slats. Inside, the walls and ceiling are painted a moody black, the booths a lustrous black leather.
Slatted wood accents around the bar, sleek pendant lights and glossy tiles all work together to create a minimalist, contemporary feel.

Along with a full-service bar stocked with sake and spirits and several small tables, Daijobu features a sizable marble-topped community table in its center that’s ideal for both big parties and smaller groups or individuals open to mingling. The table, explains Chang, “encourages a social and interactive dining experience.”

You might be too busy enjoying your meal to make many new friends, though. While the restaurant’s menu is fairly limited and substitutions are rarely allowed, the ramens and hand rolls are of such high quality that you won’t feel like you’re missing out. (Prices are quite reasonable, too; the steepest item on the menu is the $28 set of five hand rolls, and the ramens average out to $18 for a large bowl.)

Speaking of noodles: On the ramen menu, you’ll find “both timeless classics and modern creations,” says Chang, “which allows us to cater to both those seeking a classic ramen experience and those eager to try something different.”

The chicken- and miso-based broths are solid options for ramen newbies, but experienced eaters will enjoy clearing their noses with the Spicy Tan Tan ramen or indulging in the highly-popular Tonkotsu ramen, the latter of which is made with a broth that simmers for 12-plus hours, then finished with a tender pork belly that’s cooked for a similar length of time. “This meticulous process is essential to delivering the bold and authentic taste we strive for,” explains Chang, adding that all four types of ramen offered are “crafted to deliver deep, rich flavors.”

Then there are the hand rolls, which can be ordered individually or as sets of three, four or five. Crispy and perfectly portioned, the rolls “feature premium nori, high-quality short-grain rice and fresh fish,” says Chang, with toro, salmon, yellowtail, crab and scallop as the options.

As for the small plates and side dishes, you simply can’t go wrong. The Truffle Edamame puts a fun twist on a Japanese staple, while the Sesame Spinach Tofu is a surprisingly savory vegetarian choice. The appetizer highlight, though, might be the Crispy Enoki: these delicately fried mushrooms rest in a savory shoyu dashi sauce so good you’ll be tempted to drink it on its own.

Additionally, both of Daijobu’s dessert options — Black Sesame Crème Brûlée and Yuzu Lemon Sorbet — are light and delightful, with either pick capable of ending the meal on a pitch-perfect note.

Daijobu doesn’t take reservations, and even on a weeknight you’ll want to arrive not long after its 5 p.m. opening to snag a spot (it’s also open for lunch Tuesday through Friday but closed completely on Sunday and Monday). But it’s worth the wait.